Dear Spa community,
April is Earth Month, which means “sustainablity practices” is a hot topic, particularly within the communication of companies or brands that might be tempted to…greenwash us?
Not in a mood to read? Watch the video below, otherwise, keep scrolling and happy reading!
This post was inspired from reading Wellspa 360 article : “Authentically green”.
While this article focuses more on how to avoid greenwashing marketing in the Spa, I wanted to expand the scope of the conversation as I realized that we surprisingly do not talk a lot about the topic in the Spa industry.
As skincare professionals, our role is major because our clients are now so informed and savvy for more, and they will absorb and accept the information we pass on because of the trust built in the relationship, so it is important that we remain objective, measured and humble in the information we provide our clients. I’ve seen many estheticians when recommending being very adamant in their opinions, and I encourage to show humility and caution when referring to this topic which is very complicated, multi-layered, 50-shades-of-green. Even regarding a brand that you think is sustainable, remember that you only know what brands want you to know, and there is nothing 100% sustainable when it involves consuming.
Disclaimer : I am not the expert on the topic but I’ve been educating myself on the subject for a while and wanted to share with you the feedback of my investigations and thoughts. I am not here to tell you which brand is better than the other; my goal is to encourage you to question statements and not just accept the status quo of companies but actually research and dig dipper.
So let’s get started…
First of all… What is greenwashing?
Greenwashing is a Communication and Marketing strategy that uses the appeal of environmental-friendly, nature-related terms (such as eco-friendly, green, organic ,clean, natural, non-toxic) to promote their company and make their products sound more environmental-friendly than they actually are. It can refer to the quality of the product itself or its low-impact on the environment. It is visible in all industries, and of course the skincare and cosmetics industry is no exception.
How to spot greenwashing in our industry?
Be on the look out for misleading strategies:
overuse of nature colors (green & blue) or imagery (plants, leaves, flowers,…), but contradictory plastic packaging
misleading or vague words such as naturally derived, plant-based, etc…
overload of marketing on one plant-derived ingredient but no communication on the rest of the formula
all “without…” or “0%….” considered bad-ingredients claims (ex: of course my conditioner is sulfate-free: it is a conditioner, not a shampoo, so it doesn’t foam…is that all there is to this product?)
unregulated buzz words: “cruelty-free” being the best example : this "label" is not regulated in the USA and Canada, meaning the final product could not be tested on animals - which is the case anyway by European regulations for example, so remember that a company can be cruelty-free even without displaying any logo
- but it doesn’t mean the individual ingredients were not. And remember that if the products is sold in China, it still has to go through animal testing to be put on the market. “In 2014, China allowed companies manufacturing so-called “ordinary” cosmetics (such as shampoo or mascara) within the country to avoid animal tests for their products, while still requiring animal testing for imported products. In 2021, China again amended its regulations making it possible for some companies to import ordinary cosmetics into the country without the need for animal testing. We are pleased with the progress, but there is still work to be done, as “special use” cosmetics (such as hair dye or sunscreens) still require animal testing”. More info
advertising “sustainable” practices that are actually not so sustainable (biggest unanimous takeaway from my research : compensation of carbon emissions is NOT a good strategy - planting trees is a widely-spread compensation strategy)
What is the problem with greenwashing?
The problem with greenwashing is that:
Companies encourage consumers to engage in practices that the consumer actually think is good for the environment.
What about the safety of consumers, overusing products that they believe are safe for them?
It delays the necessary political conversations making the citizens believe that there are already good solution and so it delays the implementation of real solutions.
Real environmentally sustainable solutions shall be :
immediate (not by 2035 or 2050…)
an absolute value (not by diminishing emissions by passenger for example, disregarding the increase in passengers overtime, so the total increase of emissions)
involve all the activities of the company (not just part of a group that purchases an organic brands for its image but only makes up 5% of its revenue…-
Sustainability problematics in the cosmetics industry
What have I learned after digging deeper?
Let’s be honest, this topic is a bottomless hole. One thing is sure, is that not everything is black white and there is no ideal solution. Whatever you think is a safe and/or sustainable option, another problematic will emerge from. A few example and takeaways below:
Sourcing of the ingredients:
Maybe it is natural, but where is it sourced from?
If it is organic but comes from across the globe, is it green or sustainable considering the carbon emissions to transport it?
Are the local growers fairly compensated financially?
An example is the craze about bakuchiol, natural alternative to retinol, threatening the endangered plant it is extracted from:
“The reality when using natural ingredients, is that sourcing them will always have some sort of environmental impact, (…) The example of bakuchiol proves that just because a natural ingredient works doesn’t mean that it can be considered clean. Environmental sustainability must also be considered when clean beauty brands are evaluating whether it’s ethical to source an ingredient for use in skincare products. When natural ingredients aren’t viable, synthetic alternatives should be rebranded as the more eco-friendly option for fighting wrinkles. The synthetic label doesn’t inherently mean “bad,” just as the “clean” label doesn’t inherently mean “good.””
So if natural sourcing is not sustainable, a brand might decide to go for the lab-developed process, which brings up another problematic:
the extraction processes, as some are more polluting than others…
Packaging:
After looking into the formula, what about packaging?
If the formula is “clean” but the packaging is not recycled or recyclable, is it really sustainable?
If the formula is clean but you get it shipped or drive to purchase it, are you sure it has a low carbon-impact?
Glass is known to be endlessly recyclable but it is heavier to transport, so its carbon foot print can be higher than plastic.
What about plastic? the term “recycled plastic” actually does not mean it is made of 100% from recycled plastic, neither 100% recyclable.
Did you know that that not all plastic is recyclable, particularly dark-colored for example?
Conclusion?
Really sustainable means: no ingredients or practices that cause harm or toxicity to anyone involved (ingredients growers, occupational workers, environment and you, the consumer)
I believe by the end of this article we can conclude that there are no absolute answers and best solutions.
Sometimes people get focused on the cosmetics industry to look away from the real polluting industries such as animal farming & industrial fishing, fossil fuels or fast fashion - the cosmetics industry makes up for an infinite percentage of the environmental pollution, however it doesn’t mean that we shouldn’t play our part in the concern of sustainability.
It can be easier sometimes to misdirect our focus to avoid uncomfortable truths, and buying a “non-toxic” serum can make some consumers feel better about flying cross-atlantic 5 times a year. Consistency in behaviors is key for sustainability.
It is important to be open-minded and accept the fact that no waste is actually sustainable, even when trying our best to choose the “greenest” brands . It is said that “the best waste is one that does not exist”. From the moment we consume something, it does have an impact on the environment and we have to choose which impact is the most reasonable to us.
Greenwashing practices actually encourage us to be more educated consumers and Spa professionals, and to push brands and companies to be more accountable regarding their actions and their claims.
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